Vogels Bread for people who have no time to bake

When I came back from my last cycle tour I astonished my partner James and all the other people in the staff hostel by spending 3 days straight in the kitchen catching up with my baking hobby after 6 months of living in tents. With all the madness of moving into a new country, kneading and prooving provided time to think. Being in a tent was fun but sometimes I’d look at our little gas trangia and think of fluffy cobs rising and sigh…

Good quality bread in New Zealand is also horrifically expensive. Vogels bread, which Kiwis are rightly very affectionate towards and proud of is dark, grainy and a bit rubbery. It’s sliced thinly for sandwiches and there is nothing on the planet that’s better with marmite when it’s toasted. It’s better quality than any sliced loaf in the UK but it can be $5.50 a bag, which makes it completely out of our price range (unless James happens to get it from a friend, who gets it from shops almost out of date to feed his pet sheep, so we get it and put in straight in the freezer. Stuff like that happens in this country).

New Zealand Vogels Bread

New Zealand Vogels Bread

Instead I was looking for a recipe which could recreate Vogels bread. Because of the high wholegrain content, I was thinking it would take forever to knead the dough and might be a disaster. But  I tried this recipe after night shift and it came out perfectly, which is saying a lot as my attention span post staying up all night is non-existent and frankly I’ve been known to lavishly dribble.

This is the easiest bread recipe i’ve come across. There’s no kneading and the rise happens when you put it in the oven. And it does rise, which is a plus as some of my bakes could be used to anchor ships or hold tents down in storms…

It keeps well for a few days and slices easily, and is really similar to Vogels bread.

The recipe is by the Kiwi chef Annabel Langbein, who calls it ‘Busy People’s Bread’  …but is clearly better named Idiot Dribbler’s Kiwi Bread:

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Nightshift half marathon training

New Plymouth Half 2

Last years New Plymouth half marathon

I’m happy in New Plymouth. Work is fun. There are lots of challenges as a midwife, not least relearning paperwork and specifics for Taranaki Base Hospital after my most recent Cycle Tour. I really enjoy my colleagues, the personalities that crystallize on the shift work and the pressure of being midwives or nurses…

I’m getting back into shape running wise and I love the endorphins and the simplicity of trotting out of my front door. New Zealand offers some brilliant backdrops (and hills…).

The hardest thing I am coming up against is Nightshift.

My goals for this year are:

  • 1.35 half marathon. My keenest time so far has been a 1.47.
  •  completing my first full marathon, time irrelevant

The main problems for me right now are:

Excess weight and muscle in the wrong place: During cycle touring my 4 ft 11 inch frame gained about 5 pounds (could be a bit less or more, I don’t weigh myself often enough to know), from muscle and increased appetite from riding 50 miles+ a day. I feel big and rubbery while running at the moment. I’ve never had such muscular and heavy thighs.

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My two essential bike touring items for girls only: Icebreaker Rush Bra and Mooncup review

(Disclaimer: if you are male and of a delicate disposition, you may want to skip this post. Dad and Grandad, this is not for you! Either that or take a concrete pill, and read on for some morbid secrets about girls living out of tents)

As you probably know by now, I’m a life enthusiast as opposed to expeditionist and although I have room for days of mad miles, mostly I prefer to amble at a sustainable pace of no more than fifty miles/day.

However I still free camp with James, go for a weeks at a time without a shower and live out of panniers. To help with this here are two main items I couldn’t live without:

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New Years on a Bike

new yearAs New Years came in for New Zealand I was tackling the hills on the way home from a horrendously busy shift. Fireworks were being set off in the background. I was happy, breathing in the oaky, floral smell of kiwi plants at night. It was a pretty apt moment to cross into 2013.

A few partiers called ‘What are you doing?!’, obviously wondering why a tiny cyclist was  tearing up a hill in work clothes at midnight. And then I got in and James made me a cup of tea with chocolate digestives to see in the New Year.

 We have been frantically doing all the immigration tasks needed to move countries on a whim, hence why this blog is so out of date. I will finish off the tour story in more detail, but after India we saw Sydney, cycled from New South Wales across Mount Beauty and Falls Creek in Victoria, I got a job as a Midwife, and then we decided at the last minute we wanted to be in New Zealand. We’re talking an overnight decision; one day we were looking for flats in Bairnsdale, Victoria and the next we had booked flights to Auckland.

We cycled from Auckland down to Taranaki, which even after cycling in 15 countries is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. We ended up in New Plymouth, which is where I started the tour from, having moved from Leicester (UK) to New Zealand January last year. I managed to get a contract with my old hospital, where I (mostly) adore working.

James had never been to New Zealand but happily wanted to give it a go…and here we are, living on some land we help maintain for rent, in a little cabin which is perfect for us. The chickens invite themselves in, we are growing leeks, and we have landlords called John and Caroline who do lovely things like drop us off oranges from their orchard.

There are many adventures in the pipeline, including hopefully a marathon this year. My post-tour legs may have other ideas …running right now makes me feel like one of those tree creatures from Lord of the Rings, thumping through the bush and scaring dogs and wildlife. I won’t say much more but beehives are definitely a possibility. As are a series of articles on how to survive working in difficult workplace environments.

And of course, more touring, though perhaps this time on road bikes!

 

our back door

our back door

 

Cycle Touring in Rural India 2: the first Monsoon

SAM_2030We woke up in a small village. I never worked out the name, but it was one in a network of rural    villages between Mumbai and Goa. We were treated very kindly and given access to a bathroom, and had a quick chat with some ladies who ran the shop, who thought we were mad, but told us to come back if we were in the area. We were given Chai and a bucket to do the washing up with, and were watched by a suspicious crowd who were ostensibly on their way to work.

The road we biked out on could have been somewhere hilly and rural in the UK, a small tarmacked track with trees hanging down and warm sunshine. You could imagine colonial British ruffling their moustaches and thinking it might all be all right after all. it was like Devon with palm trees.

SAM_2050But then the beeping started again. Every car, lorry or other contraption felt the need to approach fast, wait until nearly level and then give you a blast with an air horn. So you’d be cycling, trying to get into a rhythm and not think about when you’d next need a toilet break or your spreading fungal nail infection when a BEEP-beep-BEEP would all but have you off your saddle. I have read blogs and books which mentioned the incessant horn use of India but nobody seems to know exactly what a honk means. ‘Namaste!’? ‘Fear my driving!’? ‘In India we are not used to seeing lycra bottoms!’? Or is it just to announce presence on the road?

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Cycle Touring in Rural India 1: out of Mumbai

Rural India

I’m sat writing this in our host Dave’s house, enjoying cool monsoon air. I wasn’t expecting to be here now, let alone have a plane booked for Australia in two days time. It was an eventful ride.

 Mumbai has the type of rain that can wash away holy cows and eat campers for breakfast.

If you’re British and you think you see bad rain – you don’t. To put it in perspective, in the whole of England’s 2011/2012 winter, there was 330mm rain total. In Mumbai, they had 300mm just in this September.

But we didn’t know this as we cycled out of Mumbai. We knew getting to India in the post monsoon season was a bit risky, but the rest of the tour would have been thrown off by a few months if we’d have replanned. We also thought that ‘post-monsoon’ season would perhaps mean a fair few rainy days, but overall good cycling with cooler weather.

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An unplanned end to the India ride

The end of Smoke’s derailleur

Tragedy!

We had a short but eventful trip out of Mumbai which ended just before the little village Khed, when I managed to trap and snap off my derailleur in my rear spokes and bend my chain.

I didn’t even have time to get used to the idea that I didn’t have a working bike any more before we were scooped up by a passing van, the bikes were strapped to the top, and we were on our way to the train station to get back to Mumbai.

That was pretty characteristic of our ride into rural India. A fiasco but with memorable moments and a hundred small kindnesses from people we met.

I’ll write up the whole story soon, but me and James are back in Mumbai for now.

Back on the road

Off into India

Just to let everyone know we are leaving Mumbai tomorrow (a bit ahead of schedule, but we can catch the Ganesha festival further down the coast). We’re heading off into rural India, so we may not have access to the internet for a while.

How do I feel? Nervous, anticipatory, excited, sleep deprived, and aware that my bike is a little the worse for wear.  I also keep checking our drug box with the broad spectrum antibiotics in it.

I can’t wait for us to be back on our bikes. Wish us luck!

…update: a Russian lady called Valeriya has just turned up to our hosts’ house, and apparently she heard of us and our blogs/cycling through some friends she met. How bizarre. We won’t let the fame go to our heads! ;)

Istanbul

Medusa’s Head, The Basilica Cistern, Istanbul

This is a difficult post to write as the city is enormous, and we got to see quite a lot of it as we stayed in Istanbul chasing Indian visas for two weeks. To put the size in context, London sprawls for 600 square miles, whereas Istanbul goes on for just over 2000; driving round Istanbul is like being a fly in a cathedral.

We arrived exhausted and very dirty having cycled for two weeks without showering. The last four days were into headwind, giving us an impressive high speed of 8km/hr. On motorways this is almost entirely without enjoyment, especially as we were eating petrol station food (i.e. minced beef patties which were raw in the middle). So we were blissfully happy for a few days just to amble and eat, and so pleased to be here at last everything seemed wonderful.

A few days after joining Ayse, our couchsurfing host (a darling girl), I began to get opinions about Istanbul. The cycling is deadly and the traffic is horrific in the city. All forms of public transport are constantly packed with people, on the trams crammed up against the glass. On the face of it Istanbul is a chronically over populated, polluted city interspersed with juxtaposing architecture, the kind that makes your dizzy both from the height of intricate ceilings, and their depth into history.

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Mumbai

Ganesha, Mumbai

I’m back in India. Before coming I felt the same anticipatory nerves that mothers have told me you feel before having your second baby. I was even more nervous this time as I knew what was coming. And this time we’re on bicycles.

Actually we haven’t done any cycling yet as we got a taxi from the station. We were going to ride despite the request of our couch surfing host Dave, who thinks we are mad, and whose detailed do’s and don’t on Mumbai could fill several guidebooks. But we’re going to need our cardboard bike boxes for flying off to our new existence in Australia after we have ridden to South to Goa and back up via Hampi, so have decided leave the boxes with Dave when we ride.

Mumbai is India’s biggest city. Like all of India it assaults every sense: psychopathic vechicles use their horns so frequently that your conversations have to be snatched in staccato; painted paisleys, mosaics and deities are on every truck, shop and free wall; you breathe in the aroma of hot butter and spice smells from the snack stands deeply until you gag at the stench of ammonia from old urine and rotting beach side rubbish tips; begging children tug at your arms.

Add to this Mumbai’s population of 20.6 million, an alarming 55% of who come from the slums, and even day to day activities like walking along the pavements become an engrossing challenge.

And then there are the rats.

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